Jan Mayen Island

First things first….last evenings quiz results. Our team had 17 out of 30 and the winners had 18, so we ended as joint runners up.

Despite the worries about the weather forecast, the wind and choppy seas did not materialise and we made it to Jan Mayen Island. We were extremely lucky, as only 4 out of 10 ships that call are able to allow guests to go ashore if the weather conditions are good enough. We spoke with Charlotte of the expedition team…this visit was third time lucky for her. Jan Mayen is a very remote and desolate island with only a small Norwegian team manning a bird research/lookout station as semi-permanent residents. We were told not to take photos of any aerials or antennas presumably because they were being used for “scientific research” purposes too.

MS Spitsbergen was anchored in Walrus Bay (don’t worry, there were no walruses, they were all killed off in the 19th century). Now, everyone on board is placed in a group and given an animal name for landing purposes, basically 10 groups of 12. We are narwhals, and our group was allocated the first landing spot using one of the ship’s zodiacs. We had to dress appropriately otherwise we would not be allowed ashore so this meant thermals, sweaters, trousers, waterproof trousers, warm coat, waterproof coat and the boots that we had collected yesterday, not forgetting hat, scarf and gloves. We climbed aboard the zodiac, everyone resembling a Michelin man dressed for winter, and a few minutes later were stepping ashore. I know we are all referred to as “explorers” on board but now we really did feel like we had earned the name. 

I had my sky blue and white scarf, so proudly became the inaugural (and so far, only) member of the Jan Mayen Manchester City supporters club. However as the air temperature was 6C and there was no wind, hats, scarves, gloves and one layer of coats were quickly removed so as to avoid overheating.

After a quick briefing we were permitted to explore at leisure. The track from the Bay led uphill to the first vantage point from where we could see all the driftwood and old whale bones spread out on the beach below. We also spotted lenticular clouds and dozens of puffins whilst in the other direction rose the majestic Mt Beerenberg. It stands at an elevation of 2,277 meters (7,470) feet) above sea level and is an active stratovolcano. The summit was shrouded in cloud but given the usual weather conditions on the island, the view was excellent. It last erupted in the early 1980’s and sits near the top end of the mid-Atlantic ridge.

In front of us stretched a track which ran through to the permanent base,  to our left was a vast expanse of black sand beach and to the right just rocks and sand, the result of previous volcanic eruptions and resembling the surface of Mars. We walked the track there and back for a total of about 3 miles, all the time admiring the high cliffs, sea stacks and footprints birds has made in the sand.

Once back at our landing point we had a quick exploration of the Walrus Bay beach itself, taking care not to disturb any bird life or tread on any small arctic plants or mosses. There was also a memorial stone to a group of 8 explorers who had lost their lives there when overwintering back in 1634.

Then finally, as we said goodbye to Jan Mayen we sailed past a large glacier which stretched down from the slopes of the volcano to the sea.

Thus ended our few hours on one of the remotest and fascinating places on earth, becoming two of the privileged 800 or so people who set foot there each year.